Refreshingly Authentic

Frank Bruni was right on point when he reviewed this Park Slope restaurant a couple of weeks ago:

"Moim does a tempered, tweaked version of Korean cooking that’s still rarer — still more of an exciting discovery — than you’d expect, given all the Momofuku mania. Many of its dishes, distinguished by a beautifully modulated and lingering heat, are compelling."

I went with high expectations, especially because I had been craving good Korean and also because I was beginning to tire of the usual Koreatown suspects.

Moim is pretty inside - it's got a chic and trendy decor that strikes a nice balance between minimalist and cozy. While waiting for a table, I had myself a ginseng "sojutini" - a cocktail concocted using the Korean vodka equivalent. It was a whopping $15 (I didn't look closely at the menu - all the other sojutinis were $9; gingseng is expensive!). Familiar with the ginseng taste since childhood, the drink felt like something my grandma would approve of if she approved of alcohol at all - bitter, medicinal, and quick to warm the insides.

My dinner companion (we'll call her Kitty) and I were finally seated after waiting an hour. We quickly gave our orders: namul (tri-color Asian vegetables), kimichi dumplings, bibimbap (for Kitty), and kalbi (for me).

Now, before I write a few words about the dishes, I'd like to offer my perspective on good Korean cuisine. The reason why I don't get excited about eating in Koreatown is that most places, in my opinion, use substandard ingredients and rely too heavily on MSG and corn starch. Oftentimes, eating at a Korean restaurant feels like I'm eating at a McDonald's - I almost always feel nasty afterwards. I grew up on homestyle Korean food (thanks mom and grandma) that relied heavily on fresh ingredients (my grandma's veggie garden), MSG-free, and seasoned just right. My mom and grandma also kept the number of banchan (the accompanying small plates) very limited, usually 2 to 3. There was also a very pleasant simplicity to all the dishes, whether it was the lightly salted cod or the bean sprout soup. Even with pork and beef dishes, there was moderation in portions and a lightness you wouldn't expect from red meats.

Moim was a pleasant reaffirmation that Korean food outside of the home can be heavenly without regrettable consequences. The ingredients were fresh, the flavors were just right, and each bite evoked memories of good times growing up in a Korean houselhold. Kitty's bibimbap, which came with the gochujang (pepper paste) already in the bowl, was generous on the vegetables and confident in the amount of heat (not too spicy, but not afraid to have a kick). The kalbi, pre-cut on a sizzling plate over a thin bed of sliced eggplant, was cooked to medium-rare perfection and was conveniently served with precut lettuce. Even at home, nobody ever thought of resizing the lettuce to make it easier to eat - what a great idea. The dwenjang, the orange bean-based sauce that comes with the dish, was both sweet and flavorful in a manner that was at the same time new and classic.

There much more I can sing in praise about the place, but I'll stop here. One other bonus was the presence of wine. I've always been a believer that Korean food pairs well with wines, so it was really nice to see some great selections on the list. Kitty had a glass of Bordeaux and I had a glass of pinotage that was just magnificient with the kalbi. Kudos to Moim, and let's see if that private space in the back is available come next March.

Moim
206 Garfield Place (7th Avenue)
New York, 11215
Tel: 718-499-8092

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4 Gobbls  

Have you been to Woo Lae Oak? Sounds like a similar concept...upscale Korean. Tasty pics, Pete!

Posted by dru, Nov. 7th at 8:00PM

Werd that ginseng sojutini sounds good and I'm salivating just looking at the kalbi.

Posted by andyn, Nov. 7th at 10:46PM

yo, this place is much more authentic than woo lae oak... sorry man, authentic korean man knows his authentic korean food

Posted by pete3483, Nov. 7th at 11:01PM

oh yeah, i read that article. your review makes me want to try it, along with some other new korean places.

Posted by yaeri, Nov. 8th at 12:00AM

Sounds to me like the got the "little things" right, which is cool. I agree about panchan; I, too, would rather have 3-4 good ones than 26 mediocre. (true story, San Soo Gap San, in Chicago, serves between 20 and 26, most instantly forgettable) I also agree about homestyle korean and being spoiled. I had a korean friend who used to take my italian canned tuna and stirfry it with kimchee and it used to knock my socks off. When she first told me that's what she was going to make I made a face....to myself of course. NEVER doubted her or her mother again. Btw, now that the weather is getting cold all I can think about is jah-jhang mien....thanks a lot. ;)

Posted by thegreekone, Nov. 9th at 1:13PM

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